The Bitter Economics of Sweet Wines
It was raining as I approached Barsac, the small village at the heart of France’s sweet-winemaking region. Navigating my car along its tiny back roads, I had long since given up on my GPS, which insisted I had “reached my destination,” though I was clearly still far from where I was supposed to be: in the cellars of Château Climens, one of the appellation’s leading properties.
Trusting my instincts, I took a right at the fork, drove over a train track and, with just one call to the château, managed to find my way onto its expansive gravel drive, the rain still pouring.
Château Climens produces around 30,000 bottles of luscious, lemony, honey-colored sweet wine every year. Its 30 hectares of vineyards sit between the château and the A62 motorway that runs all the way to Toulouse. The vineyard’s slight elevation gives the wines an attractive acidity, adding a little finesse.
Since the early 1990s, the estate has been run by Bérénice Lurton, who, with her technical director, Frédéric Nivelle, has established its reputation. The 2011 vintage in Sauternes is good; it comes on heels of the superb 2009 and 2005, and the exceptional 2001.
The reason the 2011 wines are so interesting is the unique weather pattern the growing season experienced. The spring saw temperatures soar above the average. This was followed by hail, which depleted the crop, and a very wet end to the summer. Then came an intense burst of heat at the end of the season.
All this conspired to produce wines that are delightfully fresh on the nose, with huge concentration on the palate. At nearby Château d’Yquem, the wine has a joyous nose, with floral and peach aromas, but it is when sipped that its purity and freshness stand out.
Given that Sauternes is widely regarded as the world’s greatest sweet-wine-producing region, the 2011s should be easy to sell. Not quite. While producers 25 miles northwest in Bordeaux can sell their reds and whites relatively easily, sweet wine is out of fashion.
One hears stories of cellars filled with unsold stock, while Sauternes producers lament that their creations are often referred to as “dessert” wines. They argue that, while their wines are sweet, they can also be drunk with a variety of dishes, from Roquefort salad to Cantonese roast pork. I love to serve them with the first course, as the sweetness naturally lifts the mood of the gathering. But therein lies the problem: however much you like sweet wine, it can really only be drunk in small quantities.
Why not drop the price? Again, the economics of the region aren’t as straightforward as elsewhere. Good Sauternes relies on a unique combination of foggy mornings, a certain amount of humidity and painstaking labor. To reach the optimum amount of concentration and sweetness, the grape varieties used to make the wine—Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle—need to be infected by a fungal growth, Botrytis cinerea, known as noble rot.
But not every bunch is infected uniformly, so pickers have to be diligent in selecting the grapes. Moreover, picking can be painstakingly slow, taking in some cases up to two months, 10 times more than for dry table wine. The risks are high; if the weather turns, the rot can turn as well, becoming gray rot.
While noble rot concentrates the sugars, allowing the water to evaporate and imparting the grapes with an attractive sweetness, gray rot attacks the grapes, leaving them tasting distinctly rotten and ruining at least part of the crop. This all means the production costs of making sweet wine are very high.
Of course, producers could switch to making dry white wine or even red, but by an accident of geography and climate, Sauternes is one of the few areas in which conditions are more or less perfect for the production of that distinctive rich, nutty sweetness.
Which leaves the Sauternes producers praying for a change in fashion, back to a time, more than a century ago, when their wine was among the most sought-after in the world. Whether this happens remains to be seen.
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304743704577381612213267428.html
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Highly recommended by travel guides as the best private resort in Pampanga, Clearwater Resort in Clark Philippines also offers beach and lake venues for company outings and family picnics. This outdoor resort hotel also offers several beautiful venues for beach wedding and garden receptions. No wonder this private resort in Angeles City Clark Pampanga is frequently visited by wedding couples for prenuptial photo shoot.
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Quiet place for rest and relaxation near Manila, in Subic, Angeles City Pampanga and Clark Philippines is something that residents of Manila travelling to the north for a short getaway are looking for. Clearwater is one of the best hotel in Clark and the resort is a very popular venue for rest and relaxation especially for golfers after a round of golf at one of the best golf courses near Manila. Clark is home to some of the best golf courses in Pampanga.
For inquiries and bookings, Please click here to contact Clearwater Resort for inquiries and reservations now
Clearwater Resort and Country Club, Clark Pampanga
Creekside Road near Centennial Expo,
Clark Freeport, Pampanga Philippines 2023
(045) 889-5151 0917-520-4403 0922-870-5177
Joanne or Jeremy or Loydha
Getting to this lake and beach resort in Pampanga Angeles City Clark Philippines
After entering Clark Freeport from Dau and Angeles City, proceed straight along the main highway MA Roxas, passing the stand-along wine shop called Clark Wine Center on the right, continue to bear right making no turns at all, go past Mimosa Leisure Estate on the opposite side of the road, one will hit a major intersection. Go straight and the road becomes Creekside Road. YATS Clearwater Resort and Country Club is on the right just 200m down.
http://www.ClearwaterPhilippines.com
Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 Rea or Chay
Email: Inquiry@ClearwaterPhilippines.com
Please click here to contact Clearwater Resort to reserve a venue for your upcoming event now
Wedding couples looking for wedding reception venues and beach wedding venues can log on to this Philippines Wedding Venue web site for free information and assistance:
http://www.PhilippinesWeddingVenue.com
While in Clark, it might be a good idea to enjoy an evening of wine-and-dine in the fine dining Yats Restaurant and Wine Bar that features an award winning 2700-line wine list. It is located in Mimosa Leisure Estate of Clark Freeport Zone. For more information, visit http://www.YatsRestaurant.com
YATS Leisure Philippines is a developer and operator of clubs, resorts and high-class restaurants and wine shops in Clark Angeles Philippines http://www.YatsLeisure.com
While in Clark, one might as well add to the itinerary a visit to the famous Clark Wine Center, the largest wine shop in Philippines which offers over 2000 selections of fine vintage wine from all wine regions, vintages spanning over 50 years covering all price ranges.
http://www.ClarkWineCenter.com
Looking for famous tourists spots, places to visit and see, relax and unwind in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines? You may want to check out these sites also:
http://www.HotelClarkPhilippines.com
http://www.ClarkPhilippines.com
http://www.YatsWineCellars.com
For jobs and business investment opportunities in the Philippines please visit http://www.yilp.com
Hot Line for what’s happening in Clark: 045 889-5151 or 0927-940-2669 ask for Loydha
0915-542-6250 (Jeramie)
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